Altering pants Kristine's instructions from the past

There is no discussion of clothing alterations in the book, this I know.

Are you wishing to make them lower in front? If it were me, I’d remove both the waistband and the zipper. You could theoretically use the same zipper, but it will probably be pretty chewed up by the time you get it out. It needs to come out because you want it shorter at the top and zippers can only be shortened from the bottom.

In front of a mirror, decide how you want the waist/hip line to be and draw it in roughly with chalk. Then square it up on your sewing table. There is no right or wrong here, just how you want them to look. Be sure to add 5/8 inch seam allowance and then cut the pants on this line. Insert a new, shorter, zipper.

You might want to put the zipper in be hand. Years ago, Threads magazine ran a great article titled, “A Hand-Picked Zipper is Worth the Effort” and I just saw (thanks, Gwen!) that you can Google that article! I still have that issue and have referred to it time and again. It is true that a hand-sewn zipper is nicer looking and more durable.

In a situation like this, I put a facing on the pants instead of a new waistband. Lay the pants down on large paper and carefully roll them around to trace the entire top edge with pencil. Add a full inch (you only need 5/8 inch, but a little extra is good, just in case) to the sides. Measure and mark 3 inches length all along the width of the facing. Connect the markings and you should have a finished drawing that looks like the top of the pants, with the opening at either the front or back - whichever the pants have.

Facings are always cut in pieces and then sewn together, which is a more economical use of fabric, but this way is so very easy.

Find a sturdy piece of fabric that you wouldn’t mind having on the inside of your pants - you won’t see it from the outside. Place a piece of muslin (for interfacing) or similar cotton underneath your fabric (right side up) and pin the paper pattern on top. Cut through both layers. Remove the pattern, but keep the two layers pinned together.

Baste the top and sides of the facing/interfacing together. Finish the lower edge with a zigzag or binding stitch.

With right sides together, pin the facing to the pants. There should be about an inch of facing extending from each edge. Sew along the top edge using a 5/8 inch seam. Trim the seam and press toward facing. Fold the edges in and turn the facing inside. Press and topstitch the upper edge of the pants through all thicknesses. Secure the side edges of the facing with a couple of hand stitches.

I’m a renegade seamstress and there are probably others who would gasp, but this is the way I do it.

:) Christine

I would do it in a similar way, Christine. Denim is such a heavy fabric, so I think Penngwen will definitely need the interfacing. I would also put any seams in the lining slightly fore or aft of the seams in the jeans, to avoid having to stitch through too many layers of fabric on the seams.

Another hint I would give Penngwen is to buy some special denim needles. I don't know why, but they certainly go through denim well and are much thicker than standard needles. You will save a lot of broken and blunted needles, and tears (and time and effort) by using a denim needle from the start.

Penngwen, you could try the stretch fabric trick too, but do it first on a pair that you can throw away if it looks weird. Doing it this way you could sew the zip shut, or remove it completely if you cut the top part off low enough, so you can get them on and off OK. I would use ribbing fabric. Cut them as low as you have to, to make use of the stretchy fabric to give your abdomen room to expand, particularly when you sit. Stretch the ribbing around your body until it is a comfy fit, then mark the length, cut it and ease it onto the jeans, so it doesn't end up too bulky. Put a casing at the top and some elastic that is only just firm enough, if you need it. It depends on your shape where your widest point is. Mine is about 2 inches below my waist, so elastic tops work well for me. Your body might have big hips. Just do it to suit your body. You might want to trim the fabric high in back and lower in front, as Christine suggested.

The only downside of a big band of ribbing fabric on the top is that you will need to wear your shirts long and not tucked in.

Have fun, Penngwen, and let us know how the alterations go.

Louise

Hi Gwen

With twelve pairs to play with I am sure you can risk ruining a pair or two. Goodness me, there are only seven days in a week? How many jeans does a woman need?

If you mess up one or two you can always make potholders!

I totally agree about the elastic! You could also try braces. Although unfashionable, I can see the benefits of them. You don't need a tight waist at all. Just ask any distinguished portly gentleman of a certain age.

Louise

Gwen, don't forget you can make belt loops from the jean fabric you remove. Cut a long 1-inch wide strip, fold each long edge in 1/4 inch, fold in half and sew. Measure your belt to see what size they need to be. Leave a little extra for give and sew the ends place. Also sew them across at the very top and bottom.